You feel it first when you climb a short flight of stairs. A slight breathlessness, a reminder that you’re now at 3,400 meters, in the belly of the old Inca world. Cusco doesn’t just show you history; it makes you feel it in your lungs and see it in the stone walls that still stand after centuries. This is a guide for your first three days, to help you connect with the city without rushing past its soul.
Before You Start: The Air and The People
The altitude is real. Your first few hours should be slow. Drink coca tea—it’s not a myth, it helps. The locals, the Cusqueños, are patient and resilient. They understand the mountain’s effect on visitors. A smile goes a long way here. They are proud of their heritage, and if you show genuine interest, they might share a story.
The weather is unpredictable. A sunny morning can turn into a cold, drizzly afternoon. You don’t need fancy gear, but you do need layers. A warm sweater, a rainproof jacket, and a good hat will be your best friends.
What to Eat Without Thinking Twice
Forget fine dining for a few days. The real food is found in local mercados (markets) and small family-run picanterías.
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Lomo Saltado: A stir-fry that tells the story of Peru. Tender beef, tomatoes, onions, and soy sauce served over rice with french fries. It’s a comforting, filling dish after a long day of walking.
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Cuy: Yes, guinea pig. It’s a traditional Andean food, often reserved for special occasions. It tastes like dark-meat chicken with a crispy skin. It’s okay to be curious, and it’s also okay to skip it.
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Rocoto Relleno: A spicy pepper stuffed with meat and vegetables, topped with cheese. It’s hot, but the melting cheese cools it down.
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Quinoa Soup: A simple, warm, and nutritious way to start your day or to acclimatize.
Where to Eat Without Emptying Your Wallet
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Mercado de San Pedro: This is the heart of Cusco. You can find fresh juices, a bowl of soup, or a full meal for a few dollars. It’s bustling, authentic, and the best place for a cheap and tasty lunch.
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Local Bodegas: These are small corner stores. For a few soles, you can get a sandwich (sandwich de chicharrón is a favorite), a piece of fruit, and a drink. Perfect for a quick breakfast or snack.
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The Streets Around the Plaza de Armas: If you wander just one or two blocks away from the main square, you’ll find smaller restaurants with Menú del Día (set lunch menu) that includes a starter, main course, and a drink for a very reasonable price.
Your Three-Day Journey
Day 1: Listening to the Stones of the City
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Morning (Go Slow): Start at the Plaza de Armas. Sit on a bench. Watch the cathedral, the gardens, and the people. Then, walk to San Blas neighborhood. It’s an uphill walk, so take your time. The narrow streets are filled with workshops of local artisans.
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Afternoon (The Inca Past): Head to Qorikancha. What you see from the outside is a Spanish church, but inside, the flawless Inca stonework remains. It’s a powerful display of one civilization built directly upon another.
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Evening: Find a small restaurant in San Blas for dinner. The atmosphere is quieter, more bohemian than the main square.
Day 2: Touching the Sky at Machu Picchu
This is the day. You’ll need to book train tickets and entrance in advance.
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Early Morning: Take a taxi to Ollantaytambo station (about 1.5 hours) and then the train to Aguas Calientes. The train ride itself is part of the magic, following the Urubamba River deep into the mountains.
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The Visit: There are no words that truly prepare you for your first sight of Machu Picchu. A guide can explain the history, but take at least half an hour just to sit and absorb the silence and the scale of it. It’s not just a ruin; it feels like a living place.
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Return: Take the train back, your head full of images. Have a simple dinner and rest.
Day 3: Choosing Your Own Path
After the intensity of Machu Picchu, choose what calls to you.
| Option A: The Sacred Valley | Option B: The Mountains Around Cusco |
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| A day trip to Pisac. You can visit the market (go on a Sunday, Tuesday, or Thursday for the main one) and climb up to the incredible Pisac Ruins. The terraces are vast and less crowded than other sites. It gives you a different perspective on Inca engineering. | If you prefer to stay closer, visit the four ruins just outside the city: Sacsayhuamán, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay. You can walk to them (a steep but beautiful walk) or take a short taxi ride. Sacsayhuamán, with its massive, impossibly fitted stones, will leave you in awe. |
What You Can See Without a Ticket
You don’t always have to pay to feel the magic of Cusco.
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Walk the San Blas Streets: Getting lost here is free. You’ll see ancient Inca walls seamlessly integrated into modern homes.
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Explore the San Pedro Market: No entrance fee. It’s a spectacle of colors, smells, and sounds.
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Find the 12-Angled Stone: A famous example of perfect Inca stonework, right on a public street in the center of town.
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Watch the Sunset: Find a viewpoint (mirador) in San Blas. As the sun sets over the terracotta roofs, with the mountains in the background, you’ll understand why the Incas chose this place.
Cusco is a city that asks you to slow down and pay attention. It’s in the feel of the cobblestones under your feet, the taste of a new food, and the quiet dignity of its people. In three days, you won’t see everything, but you will feel enough to know you have to come back.
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